Ebisu's Finest

When I told Hotta-sensei that I was going to Tokyo by myself on Saturday, he crossed his arms over his chest and leaned back in his desk chair next to me. "And you plan to make this trip all alone? You are far braver than me," it sounded like a compliment, but I knew it was back-handed. What kind of fool goes to Tokyo all alone for the day? And doesn't know how to speak or read Japanese?
Romain had a similar reaction later that evening, though he was much kinder. Why would anyone want to go to Tokyo alone? What kind of fun is that? But Romain also provided a solution.
"You plan to go to Ebisu? I have a great friend who lives very near to there. Let me have him show you around." Before I could object (actually while I was objecting), Romain pulled out his katai and was already on the phone with Nory. Speaking French. "Non, non, elle est américaine. Elle voudrait visiter le musée de bière, et peut-être le parc aussi bien....” Oh, lord. I hate being a burden to people. As I was burying my face in my hands I heard Romain stop talking. I looked up to see him holding out his katai to me, his eyebrows arched in an encouraging question, "would you like to speak with him?"
"He's French?"” my French speaking ability is embarrassing...
"No, Japanese. But he speaks English.” Ok, here we go.
"Hello?"
"Hey, this is Nory. Is this Sarah?" The voice on the other end of the line surprised me. No accent. Perfect pronunciation. He sounded, well, American.
And he is, in a way, I found out the next day after meeting him at the train station in Ebisu. Despite Hotta-sensei's concens, I navigated my way without difficulty on the JR train system from Utsunomiya to Tokyo, changing at the massive Shinjuku station to the Yamanote Line, which took me to the Ebisu district. I got into Ebisu right at 12:30, just in time for lunch.
Nory took me to a place not so far from the station, a small Bobo cafe on the second floor of a building, overlooking the narrow street. We settled down on a cool leather sofa near the window, ordered lunch, and sipped our small glasses of water. Lunch was nice.

A SYNOPSIS:

First Name: Nory
Last Name: ?
Age: 25
Nationality: Japanese
Place of Birth: Texas
Astrological Sign: Libra
Profession: Salaryman: Marketing Consultant (or something like this) for a major advertising firm
Lanuages Spoken: Japanese, English, French
Lived Abroad: In America from birth until age 10; In Paris while earning his M.B.A.
Works: Until midnight 5 days a week (and sometimes Saturday, too)
Would like to visit: Africa, France, Los Angeles
Method of transport: Foot, Train, Folding bicycle
You'’d never guess it, but: He's a hip-hop dancer. Seriously.

What I had expected to be an awkward afternoon between two (nearly) complete strangers instead ended up being, well, actually really nice. After lunch, we made our way to Sopporo's Yebisu Museum and brewery. I had read about the museum in my Tokyo guidebook, and was looking forward to the visit. We were greeted at the entrance by a pair of pretty girls in cute Yebisu beer dresses handing out free plastic cups of beer. (Unfortunately) the exhibits ended up all being in Japanese, but (fortunately) Nory translated the more interesting pieces for me. Happily, my main interest in the museum, the tasting room, didn’t require translation. We purchased tickets from a vending machine (in classic Japanese style), which we presented to the bartenders to receive sampler trays of beer.
There were four beers offered: A German Weiss, the standard gold-labeled Yebisu Pilsner, a fruity English Ale, and a slightly sweet and smokey Black Beer. All were delicious and generously portioned, so that by the time we left the tasting room, we were both a bit more relaxed and talkative.
Nory had to go to work (on a Saturday afternoon!), but helped me find the Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography before he said goodbye. I thanked him for taking time to show me around, and was genuinely sorry to have to part so soon.
The photography museum was one to be enjoyed alone, though. I visited the Photojournalism in Context Since 1955 show, and left the museum feeling overwhelmed by the collection of gruesome war photos I had seen. I shuffled my way to the exit right as the museum was closing at six and the sun was sinking between the buildings to the West.

The sun setting in the city can be quite stunning, reflecting off the mirrored glass and steel skyscrapers, casting long shadows into the streets, and making everything glow golden. As the sun sinks lower, the colors grow warmer and warmer, first like the yellow lines pained along the train platform, then turning to the amber hue of Yebisu's Finest, and eventually melting like butter into the night. It's enough to make any American girl in Tokyo smile like a fool on the street, even if passersby give funny looks. Even if she is all alone. And maybe even because of it.